Chocolate Chocolate Truffles

BY HELEN S. FLETCHER, ON
COPYRIGHT, HELEN S. FLETCHER, 2017. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
ALL PHOTOS BY PASTRIES LIKE A PRO UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

Box of trufflesAt the bakery, we were known for our chocolate.  Among the favorites were the Chocolate Chocolate Truffles.  We only offered these from October to May when the weather was cooler.  We had one client who was so funny.  I could count on her to be the first call to get these truffles.  She used to hide them in a purple box in the back of her refrigerator – until her boys got old enough to figure there was something special in the box.  Then she had to start sharing the truffles. She would tell me she ate truffles all over the world but these were the best.  I have always remembered her kind words.

The secret to these truffles is to freeze the centers before coating.  We had a chocolate tempering machine and I really miss it.  But there is a way to approximate the finish.  The truffles themselves are really easy to make and finish.  A bit of practice will make you an expert.  The first coat almost always goes out of temper, meaning they will be really dull with white streaks.   After dipping the first coat, let them come to room temperature.

When they have come to room temperature, reheat the chocolate letting it get no hotter than 88 to 90 degrees.  If it gets too hot cool it down before using.  To speed the cooling, you can add a bit more chocolate to the mix and let it melt.   Dip them again and let them set up.  These are fine at room temperature for a day but should be refrigerated after that.  Bring them to room temperature before serving.

There are tools to dip chocolate but I was never successful with them.  We used the hand method.  Wearing vinyl gloves makes this much easier.  However, they have to fit really well.  I did not have gloves that fit and as a result the fingertips got in the way resulting in  truffles that had rather large feet.  Having feet refers to excess chocolate at the bottom of the truffle.  I’ll tell you a story.  When I first started, my truffles had really big feet – so I did what any self respecting pastry chef would do.  I chilled them down and cut the feet off with scissors.  Nobody ever said, “I won’t buy these because you cut the feet off the truffles”.

I am not a fan of cocoa dipped truffles.  After a while the cocoa is absorbed by the filling and doesn’t look great.  You can re-cocoa them but when picked up some of the cocoa inevitably drifts off onto your clothes.

The box of truffles above displays the logo of my bakery.  These are truly a fine truffle and I hope you give them a try.

Chocolate Chocolate TrufflesTruffle ngredients 1/2 cups cream
25 grams unsalted butter
25 grams sugar
150 grams chocolate
1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Heat cream, butter and sugar until the butter is melted and the sugar dissolved.Heating truffle ingredients

the mixture should be very hot, but not boiling. Submerge the chocolate under the cream and let sit for 4 or 5 minutes.chocolate in Chocolate submergedWhisk until smooth.
Whisking 1-1Whisking 2Whisking 3Add vanilla and whisk to incorporate. vanilla in When choosing a bowl into which to pour the chocolate, make sure the chocolate will be as deep as possible as long as your fingers can get into it.  You need plenty of chocolate to coat the centers.  Pour into a container, Pouring into bowlcover the surface with film and chill until cold.covered with film

Scoop with a #100 disher,dropping with lldisherdropping them onto the parchment paper. dropped truffleFreeze until hard.

For your dipping station set the frozen truffles on your left, the chocolate in the middle and the parchment covered baking pan on the right.  dipping set up

Quick Tempering Chocolate
3/4 pound chocolate (340 grams or 12 ounces)
3 tablespoons crisco or cocoa butter

Melt semisweet chocolate with the crisco or cocoa butter either over a double boiler or in the microwave at half power. Do not let it get really hot, just melted.    Drop a truffle center into the chocolate.  Center in chocolateSeparate your first and middle fingers into a V. fingers in a VSubmerge the filling under the chocolate.  Dip you V shaped fingers below the truffle and bring it up on your two open fingers. Removing from chocolateKnock your fingers on the side of the bowl several times to take off excess chocolate.  Drag your fingers across the top of the bowl to get the the excess chocolate off your fingers . scraping bottom across bowlsscrascraping chocolate off bottom 2Move the truffle to the parchment, still on your fingers.  Place it on the parchment and shove it off with your thumb.  pushing off with thumbRepeat for all of the remaining truffles.

Allow the coated truffles to come to room temperature. Melt chocolate coating to 88 to 90°F and re-coat as above.

Store in the refrigerator. For best flavor. bring to room temperature to eat.

Yield: Approx. 25Finished truffle on silver

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7 thoughts on “Chocolate Chocolate Truffles

  1. ellen

    Thanks so very much for these extremely useful tips. Especially the one about overheating the chocolate. You have confirmed my impression that it’s actually better to use the lower-percentage chocolate, certainly no more than 70%. I have already tried omitting the butter but sometimes this has happened even then, so over-heating may well be the culprit now.

    I don’t subtract the amount of booze from the cream. It doesn’t seem to make any difference one way or the other but maybe I should be more systematic and try it, just in case.

    I am going to print your comment out and keep it with my ancient copy of bon appetit, can you believe I still use that…! Time to get it all on the computer really.

    1. hfletcher Post author

      Your welcome Ellen. I have another reader who has saved her copy of Bon Appetit with my Brioche recipe and the 13 recipes using it. She still uses the magazine also. Hope the tips help.

  2. Manisha

    Hi Helen,

    If we freeze the truffles before dipping them in melted chocolate then wouldn’t the coating of the chocolate crack as it will dry up? Just speaking from my experience of making cake pops. initially all their outer chocolate coating used to have cracks. Now I only put them in fridge for 10 mins or so.

    Loved your technique of coating truffles in chocolate. Will try it today itself as I am working on strawberry chocolate truffle cake.

    Thanx and love

    1. hfletcher Post author

      Hi Manisha – No the chocolate has never cracked. These truffles have a very creamy center and can’t be dipped unless frozen as they are too soft. I have made them for 30 years and the chocolate has never cracked. Cake and chocolates are two different things – one having nothing to do with the other.

  3. ellen

    I totally agree with you about cocoa-coated truffles. I reckon this is probably what ‘home’ recipes say quite often because it’s a lot less work than dipping. But every year at Christmas I make truffles and I always dip them. Sometimes I have to confess I don’t do the 2d dipping. But of course it is a much better result if you do.

    I’m pleased to see that your professional technique is almost exactly the same as what I’ve evolved over the years. The best result using ‘tools’ that I’ve found is a couple of toothpicks. But I’m sure you are so right, just using your hands is a much better solution. I have done that in fact but for some reason it never occurred to me to don gloves. What a great idea and how great that you spell out exactly HOW to dip using your hands, with your wonderful pictures. That will be such a help to me, come Christmas.

    A couple of questions. Over the years I’ve found chocolate has gotten more and more intense. When I first started doing these truffles I used Lindt which was 50% cocoa mass – which was a lot back then! Now I can regularly buy chocolate that is 70%, 85%, 90%. I’ve discovered that when I use the really high-cocoa mass chocolate, I end up with excess fat on top of the chilled mix.. I’m wondering also if using double cream, which is 40-50% butterfat over here (UK), could do this, and maybe should I use whipping cream instead? What do you think? I use a recipe v similar to yours which appeared in the 1980s in Bon Appetit, a Belgian recipe. The only change I make is to add a lot of booze, especially high-proof rum (more kick per spoonful!). Or alternatively seedless raspberry jam.

    1. hfletcher Post author

      Dear Ellen – Thank you so much for you comment. At the bakery we used Guittard French Vanilla chocolate. It was 58%. I especially liked the flavor but it also had the advantage of being able to be used in everything to do with dark semisweet chocolate. I never used the higher percentages of chocolate because they would require retooling of the recipes. Also in the states the highest % of cream we can get is 40% which is what I always use. I know for sure that excess fat can occur when the mixture is made if the chocolate is initially too hot. The cocoa butter has a tendency to separate and rise to the top. That is why there is a note to get the cream steamy but not boiling. When you add the booze do you subtract that amount from the cream?

      Also, do you just heat the cream just until steamy and submerge the chocolate? That helps keep the chocolate from getting too hot and causing the separation.

      One final thought – try omitting the butter if you use it. You may not need the additional fat from the butter if you are using the high mass chocolates.

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