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Spooning the Crust

Sealing the Crust to the side of the pan

Spooning the crust is something we did at the bakery which saved many a product when we released it from the pan.  This tip will keep your end product looking pristine after releasing it.

Pre-baked crusts can have a gap between the pan the and crust. When a topping is added it can often leak down into that gap making it difficult to release. The technique I came up with at the bakery solves the problem enabling it to be released cleanly and easily.

Where does leaking happen

Cheesecakes, lemon bars and other bar type cookies are good candidates for spooning the crust.  I mention it in my latest book, Craving Cookies.  It’s simple and effective.  Examples of  this technique on my blog can be found in Pecan Bars, Updated Lemon bars, Sour Cream Cheesecake and Apple Crisp Cheesecake.  

Spooning the Crust fixes that problem

Immediately after the crust is baked or partially baked, use the back tip of a spoon to reattach the crust to the side of the pan by gently pushing the crust back to the edge of the pan. Simply place the tip of the spoon between the gap and the crust. Drag it straight down the edge of the pan with a bit of pressure and the crust will adhere.   This will prevent the liquid ingredients from seeping down the pulled away edges of the crust.

Sealing the crust with a spoon

Unbaked Crusts

This technique can also be used to make sure a crust is tightly pressed against the side of the pan even if it isn't being baked such as a graham cracker crust.

Spooning the Crust

Updated Lemon Meringue Pie

Lemon Meringue Pie

This Updated Lemon Meringue Pie came about as a result of a Meringue class I taught recently on Zoom. Two things stood out. The meringue and how the filling is made. This update addresses both of those to make this easier and foolproof.

Please go here for the recipe.

The Filling

The is the usual filling for a Lemon Meringue Pie but how it is made can stand some modernization. Typically, the water, sugar, cornstarch, and salt are cooked until very thick. At this point, the yolks are tempered by adding the hot liquid to them three times. Then everything is put back in the pan and brought to a boil for 1 minute.

An easier, faster way is to simply put everything but the butter in the pan at the same time and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Add the butter off heat, whisk in and pour into the baked pie shell. Continue as in the blog.

The Meringue for the Updated Lemon Meringue Pie

Weeping or beading as the sugar beads are known can be a problem with Meringue toppings. The meringue sliding off the filling can be another problem. Both of these are easily solved by adding the how and when the meringue is put on the pie.

Several ingredients will make a difference. Baker's sugar or caster sugar is very finely ground sugar. Using this can make the difference between the sugar dissolving in the egg whites are staying undissolved. The undissolved sugar causes the beading.

The second ingredient that can help, especially if the weather is a bit humid is to add ¼ teaspoon cornstarch per egg white. Mix the cornstarch and sugar together before slowly adding to the egg whites. The sugar should be added a spoonful at a time and then beaten for 15 to 20 seconds before adding another spoonful. This will allow time for the sugar to fully dissolve.

An acid in the form of cream of tartar, lemon juice or white vinegar will help stabalize the egg whites. I prefer the cream of tartar because I don't like adding any liquid to the egg whites. Cream of tartar is added ⅛ teaspoon per egg white.

Applying the Meringue to the Pie

Once the meringue is whipped to a stiff peak, how it is applied determines if it will slide off the filling or not.

First of all, many recipes tell you to put the meringue on the hot filling. Don't! The filling does not cook from the bottom on a hot filling because the filling isn't hot enough. That is just hooey! After the filling is added to the crust, press plastic wrap onto the top of the filling and allow it to come to room temperature.

It is most important to make sure the meringue is attached at every point to the inside of the crust. As I mention in the post, this is easiest done with a piping bag but spooning it on is fine as long as it is attached to the crust. This will keep it from slipping off the filling or shrinking back.

Browning the Crust

One of the things that will cause beading or weeping is baking the crust to brown it. Any undissolved sugar will form this little brown beads. I put my Lemon Meringue Pie on a sheet pan on the lowest rung of the oven on hi broil. Within minutes it is beautifully and evenly browned.

Lemon Meringue Pie

Lemon Meringue Pie

When I first thought about blogging about a Lemon Meringue Pie I thought it would be an easy blog since everybody knows about Lemon Meringue Pie.

That might have been one of my biggest misconceptions in pastry.  As I began researching, I found no one agreed on a number of details.  Among the problems were the meringue separating from the shell after it was baked, the pie getting watery after cutting, and the meringue "weeping".

The Meringue

Most recipes recommended putting the meringue on while the filing was hot, making sure it was attached to the crust.  It seems everybody agreed on that.  Finishing it in a 350°F oven for 10 to 12 minutes to brown it was also pretty much the norm.  So that was test #1.  The results were less than desirable.  The meringue separated and the tart got very watery after refrigerating it.  The soggy crust was a real turn off!

A lot of people quoted Alton Brown who can dispense some really bad information.  His theory that putting the meringue on the filling when it was hot would partially bake the meringue.  Now there is a misstatement for the ages!  The first thing to realize, is that no matter what you do meringue does not bake.  It either stays soft as in the topping for Baked Alaska and Lemon Meringue Pie or it is dried out in the oven as in a Pavlova shell or meringue cookies.  The top may brown but it never bakes through.

The sugar allocated to the meringue in most recipes was between ⅓ to ½ cup to 4 egg whites. In my second test, I used ½ cup sugar (100 grams or 3 ½ ounces) to 4 egg whites.  However, this time I decided to put them on a chilled filling.  Big mistake!  I covered the filled crust with film and refrigerated until it was cold.  However, it condensed and no amount of patting it with paper towels dried it enough to keep the meringue tight to the filling.

Takamo to the Rescue

So at this point I started researching some more when I came across an answer to the question, "How do you keep meringue from pulling away from the sides of a pie after it is baked?  The person answering the question was Takamo - no kind of address so that is all I can tell you.  His answer was directly opposed to most of the information on the internet or in cookbooks, but it works.  His reasoning is spot on and it was wonderful to find something that I had been thinking about.

Basically, he agreed with attaching the meringue to the side of the crust, particularly the inside of the crust  on top.  However, he explains that the meringue should be put on top of a room temperature filling.  Not chilled, not hot, just room temperature.  His reasoning is thus:  "Hot filling is what causes the sugar in the meringue to liquefy when condensation occurs due to the heat.  The filling must be cooled first.

Then, the meringue, when made should incorporate cream of tarter which is often left out during its preparation. This stabilizes the mixture and prevents the egg whites from separating. Also, excessive whipping can cause the meringue to separate, as does an inaccurate amount of sugar added to the egg whites. Here is a recipe for meringue: Rule of thumb: one cup of sugar for every 3 large egg whites. (for medium sized eggs, use four eggs and for jumbo sized eggs, add ¼ cup of sugar) Rule of thumb,: ¼ teaspoon of Cream of Tartar for every 3 egg whites. (for meringue only) Egg size in this case doesn't matter. 1 teaspoon of vanilla for every cup of sugar.

The whipping time varies. Room temp, size of eggs and speed of mixer are dependent on how fast the eggs whip. Always start on a low speed until the eggs start to foam. Then finish on medium speed. High speed on the mixer causes the egg whites to separate and the formation of the meringue can occur too quickly and control of the meringue is lost. The idea is to slowly incorporate air into the mixture, not breaking down the egg whites. The chemical properties of the sugar are what "cook" the egg whites. Not heat.

During the browning stage of the meringue, the oven will tend to cause the sugar to further absorb the moisture from the eggs and cause it to become "syrup-like" Low temps on the oven are the culprit. Pre-heat and set your oven to "broil" then place the pie on the shelf lowest to the heating source. With the door open, watch the pie brown. It only takes a minute or two to do so. If you have to, rotate the pie for even browning and quickly remove it. Allow it to cool to room temp before putting it in the fridge. In a professional kitchen, I some times use a propane torch to brown the tops, but it takes a skilled hand. Source: La vie du Boulanger, Marcel Neau cir;1984"

Testing Commences

So I tested his version also - #3.  I agree with much of what he says but disagree with his egg white/sugar ratio.  The meringue is simply too heavy.  One of the important standards of a good lemon meringue pie is that it be topped with billows of meringue.  Three egg whites and 1 cup of sugar does not produce billows.  I also found the sugar would not completely dissolve in the egg whites.  I beat it for over 10 minutes on medium as Takamo suggested but a grittiness from the sugar was still there.

Summing Up The Lemon Meringue Pie

First, It is important to cover the lemon filling with film after being made and poured into the shell.  Then allow it to cool at room temperature.  At this point and not before,  the meringue is added.

Second, using 4 egg whites from size large eggs and 1cup of sugar (200 grams or 7 ounces) is a two to 1 ratio by volume producing the high meringue requisite to this Lemon Meringue Pie.  To insure the meringue does not pull away from the crust it is best to pipe it in a circular motion starting at the inside of the exposed crust.  I piped several times building up the meringue for an attractive look.  I know some recipes spoon the meringue onto the crust  but I think that is leaving open the possibility of not attaching it to the crust all the way around.

Third - the final important point is to brown it under a preheated broiler.  This prevents the sugar in the meringue from becoming too hot as it will in a lower temperature oven baked for a longer time.

Following these rules for this Lemon Meringue Pie, the meringue will stay attached for days in the refrigerator with no weeping either on your part or the part of the meringue and without the filling becoming watery if it is kept for several days.   Even after I left the pie in the refrigerator for four days the meringue did not separate nor did it "weep" which is also caused by slow browning of the crust.  The filling did not become watery so the crust stayed crisp.

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Lemon Meringue Pie

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Lemon Meringue Pie is an American classic and with good reason.  This recipe addresses weeping, wet fillings, and sliding fillings while keeping all the things that make this a great dessert

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 45
  • Cook Time: 50
  • Total Time: 95
  • Yield: 9" pie
  • Category: Pie
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

Pie Crust

  • 1 ¾ cups sifted cake flour (6 ⅓ ounces or 180 grams)
  • ⅓ cup sifted all-purpose flour (scant 1 ½ ounces or 40 grams)
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • 6 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces and frozen until hard (90 grams or 3 ounces)
  • 3 tablespoons shortening (like Crisco) frozen and cut into pieces (45 grams or 1 ½ oz.)
  • 2 tablespoons beaten egg
  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • 5 tablespoons water, chilled and divided

Lemon Filling

  • 4 eggs, separated ((68 grams or 2 ⅔ ounces)
  • 1 ⅓ cups water
  • 1 ⅓ cups sugar (250 grams or 9 ounces)
  • ⅓ cup cornstarch (45 grams or 1 ½ ounces)
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons butter, cut in small pieces (45 grams mor 1 12 ounces)
  • ⅔ cup lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
  • 1 fully baked 9" pie shell

Meringue

  • 4 egg whites from above (128 grams or 4 ½ ounces)
  • ½ teaspoon cream of tartar
  • 1 cup sugar (200 grams or 7 ounces)
  • 1 teaspoon cornstarch, optional

Instructions

Pie Crust - go here for how to photos

  1. Place both flours and the salt in the processor bowl.  Pulse several times to mix.  Place the butter evenly over the flour and pulse until the butter is in large pieces.  Add the frozen shortening and continue to pulse until the shortenings are pea sized.
  2. Combine the egg, lemon juice and water.  Pour in a circle over the processor contents.  Pulse until it forms clumps.  Pour out onto a lightly floured work surface.  Push the clumps together into a ball.  Knead 4 or 5 times for form a dough.  Pat into a circle about 1 inch thick.  Wrap in film and refrigerate a minimum of 2 hours or overnight.
  3. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  Place the oven rack in the lowest position.
  4. On a lightly floured surface, roll out to a circle approximately 13 inches.  Place in the pie pan and fit into corners.  Cut the overhang an even 1 inch all the way around.  Tuck the crust under and flute the edges.  To bake blind, freeze for 30 or more minutes until hard.  Line with foil, and fill with beans.  Bake for 20 minutes in the oven.  Remove the beans by bringing the four corners of the foil together and lifting out.  Return to the oven and bake for approximately 18 to 20 minutes until lightly browned and completely baked.

Filling

  1. Separate the eggs, placing the yolks and whites in different bowls.  Set aside.
  2. In a medium saucepan, whisk together all of the ingredients except the butter and the pie crust.  Place over medium heat and, whisking constantly, bring the mixture to a boil.  Boil for one minute.  It will be very, very thick.  Boil for one minute.  Remove from the heat.Cooked lemon filling
  3. Submerge the butter under the sauce and let it sit for a few minutes to melt.  Whisk gently to combine all.  Butter added to filling for Lemon Meringue Pie
  4. Immediately pour it into the pie shell.Filled Pie Shell
  5. Cover directly with film and let come to room temperature.  Do not refrigerate.
  6. When it is room temperatures, make the meringue.

Meringue

  1. Place the oven rack to the bottom rung.  Preheat the oven to hi broil.
  2. Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in a mixing bowl.  Beat until soft peaks begin to form. Whipping Egg Whites
  3. Gradually add the sugar. Adding sugar to the egg whites
  4. Beat to really stiff peaks.Stiffly whipped egg whites for Lemon Meringue Pie
  5. Place in a piping bag fitted with a large open star (#8 or 9 open star) and pipe the meringue onto the lemon filling starting at the inside edge of the crust.  Make sure the meringue attaches to the pie crust all the way around.  Then pipe in concentric circles towards the middle.  Pipe more meringue on top of the already piped meringue until it is all used. Alternately, just spoon it on and make swirls with the spoon making sure you are attaching it all the way around to the crust.Piping meringue on inside edge of pie crust

Piping meringue

 

Piping more meringue

  1. Place the pie on a rimmed baking sheet and into the oven for about 1 minute and 15 seconds or until lightly browned.  Watch it carefully as the top most peaks of the crust will burn quickly.  Cool completely before cutting.
  2. Store in the refrigerator.Lemon Meringue Pie

Notes

This pie will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days with no weeping, sliding, getting wet, etc.  

Keywords: Updated Lemon Meringue Pie, lemon meringue pie, lemon filling, meringue,

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The Best of All Spiced Molasses Cookies

Best of All Molasses Cookies

These updated cookies really are the Best of All Spiced Molasses Cookies due to the muscavado sugar used.  The original recipe with it’s crinkle finish is from “Julia Child and More Company” and has always been one of my favorites.  

In order to accommodate the new sugar, I have changed the recipe slightly.  These cookies will have crisp edges but will be soft in the centers. 

Muscavado Sugar

Muscavado Sugar

Several posts ago, I talked about the different sugars used in baking.  Among them was one that intrigued me the most - the muscavado dark brown sugar.  Also known as Barbados sugar, it's very robust and the least refined raw cane sugar in which all of the molasses is retained.  

It comes in a dark and light version with a rich, intense flavor.   Muscavado sugar has a wet, sandy texture and has a stronger taste than regular brown sugar due to the increased molasses. Light muscovado sugar is about one sixth molasses, and dark about one third molasses. 

It retains the most complex sweetness including the butterscotch flavors in candies and puddings.   This sugar is key to the more intense flavor of these Best of All Spiced Molasses Cookies.

Not normally found in most grocery stores, it is available online  

Substitution for Muscavado Sugar

If muscovado sugar is not to be found, substitute the same amount of dark brown sugar and use dark or full flavored molasses.  That will get you closest.

Double Pan the Best of All Spiced Molasses Cookies

It is important to double pan these cookies as they feature really dark brown sugar and molasses which tends to over brown the bottoms.  Placing one baking sheet on top of another will solve this problem. The cookie on the left was baked on a single pan while the cookie on the right was doubled panned.

Double panned cookie

Easy to Over Bake

Because these cookies puff up in the oven, it is easy to overbake them.  After the initial baking, add a few minutes one or two at a time.  They should be puffy, but not wet in the center.  Usually 3 to 4 minutes more will do it. 

These deeply flavored, richly spiced Best of All Molasses Cookies are extremely satisfying and perfect by themselves or with a cup of tea…..or coffee.  

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The Best of All Spiced Molasses Cookies

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Muscavado sugar is the key to these intensly flavored, enormously satisfying Best of All Molasses Cookies. 

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 20 minutes
  • Cook Time: 13 minutes
  • Total Time: 33 minutes
  • Yield: 32
  • Category: Cookies
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

  • 1 ¼ cups salted peanuts, divided (140 grams or 5 ounces
  • ⅓ cup granulated sugar (65 grams or 2 ¼ grams)
  • 1 cup muscovado sugar,(200 grams or 7 ounces)
  • ¾ cup unsalted butter (170 grams or 6 ounces or 1 ½ sticks)
  • 1 large egg
  • ⅓ cup mild molasses
  • 2 cups all purpose flour (280 grams or 10 ounces)
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon cloves
  • ½ teaspoon ginger
  • ¼ nutmeg
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Line three baking sheets with parchment.  Double pan by placing the lined baking sheet on top of another baking sheet.  This will keep the bottoms of the cookies from over browning or burning.
  2. Place the peanuts in a food processor.  Pulse to coarsely chop.  Remove ½ cup and set aside.  To the remaining peanuts in the processor, add ⅓ cup granulated sugar and pulse to finely chop the peanuts.  Remove to a bowl.  Set aside.
  3. Cream the butter, sugar and ½ cup chopped peanuts until light and fluffy.Ingredients to be creamed for Best of All Molasses Cookies

Creamed ingredients

  1. Beat in the egg.Adding the egg
  2. Followed by the molasses.  Scrape often.Molasses added to the Best of all Molasses Cookies
  3. In the meantime, combine the flour, baking soda, spices and salt.Flour and Spices
  4.  Whisk to combine.Dry ingredients whisked together
  5. Add to the creamed mixtureFlour Added
  6. and beat until well combined.Best of All Molasses Cookies dough
  7. The dough will be soft but can be shaped.  Do not refrigerate or the peanut/sugar mixture will not adhere to the cookies.  Just use a light touch.  Scoop the dough with a #40 disher/scooper, scraping it off well.  Roll in the sugar/peanut mixture. Cookie in sugar/peanut mixture
  8. Alternatively, these can be shaped by rolling about 1 ½ tablespoons of dough into a ball then rolling it in the peanut/sugar mixture. Cookie rolled in sugar
  9. Place 12 equally spaced cookies on a half sheet pan as these will flatten and spread.
  10. Bake for 9 minutes on the center rack, turn the pan and bake for 3 to 4 minutes more.
  11. They will have flattened out, have a crinkle finish and be slightly puffy.  Cool slightly, then remove to cooling racks.

Notes

These keep well for 4 or 5 days in an airtight tin.  

Keywords: molasses cookies, Julia Child, muscavado sugar, peanuts, crinkle cookie, spice cookie, spiced molasses cookies

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The Perfect Mother's Day Cake

Strawberry Cake for The Perfect Mother's Day Cake

I'm not sure how I forgot this Perfect Mother's Day Cake in my last blog. After I sent the last post, I put mother's day out of my mind - until I didn't. How could I have forgotten this? You know, May, strawberry season, Mother's Day!

So, I'm back on Tidbit Thursday to remind you of this special Strawberry Cake. The easiest white cake you'll ever make filled with an intense Strawberry Buttercream all wrapped up in snow white whipped cream.

That's it - the shortest blog I've ever written.

Mother's Day Thoughts

Greek Orange Yogurt Cake
Greek Orange Yogurt Cake with Orange Syrup (Portokalopita)

Mother's Day is defined by food and flowers as it should be. There was always a special brunch my husband and boys would make. It wasn't so much about the food and flowers, but the idea they thought about the menu, made it and then cleaned up. It was a day to be together and share - one of my favorite days.

In keeping with that tradition, I have rounded up some traditional and non-traditional treats I thought other mothers would enjoy. From sweet breads to desserts, snacks and candy. There's something for every time of the day and every taste.

Breakfast and Brunch

Cinnamon Bread - is a favorite and can be made ahead and tucked in the freezer. Thaw and reheat in a 350°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes to warm.

Cinnamon Bread for Make Ahead Breads for Easter

Sunny Side Up Apricot Pastries - if using a bought puff pastry, make sure it is made with butter for the best flavor. This gorgeous pastry that mimics sunny side up eggs can be made though adding the pastry cream to the puff and freezing them. Thaw the night before in the refrigerator, add the apricots and bake off for fresh pastries for a special mother.

Sunny Side Up Apricot Pastries

Marvelous Variable Kolache - These Czechoslovakia pastries have an easy to work with yeast dough that shapes easily for any one of the several fillings or even better, make several of the filings to please everyone.

Kolache

Desserts

Traditional Apple Strudel - There was many a Sunday I sat and watched as my mother and grandmother would gently pull the small wad of dough into the thinnest of sheets over a big round table. It could be filled with many things, sweet or savory, but often it was apples. My job was to sweep up the flakes that had fallen from the dried ends of the dough. This Apple Strudel can be completely prpared in advance and frozen. Bake it from the frozen state, adding additional time to account for the freezing.

Apple Strudel for Mother's Day Thoughts

Greek Orange Yogurt Cake with Orange Syrup (Portokalopita) - One of my all time favorites. I could eat the entire pan by myself. It is one of the most unusual uses of phyllo I have ever seen with a intense orange flavor. Crushed up phyllo stands in for flour. If you don't need a 9x13 inch pan, cut the recipe in half and make it in an 8x8" square pan. If you've never made this, do try it sometime. It won't disappoint.

Greek Orange Yogurt Cake

Snacks for Mother's Day Thoughts

Chocolate Raspberry Pop Tarts - An upscale version of a popular favorite.

Chocolate Raspberry Pop Tarts

Kifle - is a childhood memory made possible by my mother's good notes. A yeasted crescent shaped dough holds a walnut filling, although others can be used. Kifle can by made, baked and frozen without the powdered sugar. Thaw at room temperature and warm in a 350°F oven for about 10 minutes to refresth. Dust with powdered sugar when cool.

Candy

Salted Macadamia Rum Toffee -Mother's Day thoughts brought me to an elegant chocolate to finish the day.

So on this Mother's day, make something as special as she is.

Three Easy Sugar Fixes

Granulated sugar
Granulated Sugar

Three easy sugar fixes may just get you through that recipe that needs one of these and guess what? You're out! If you saw Monday's post - Sugar, The Sweetest Part of Baking, you know there are many different sugars both dry and liquid. But all that knowledge doesn't help when there isn't any. Any one of these remedies may just help.

BROWN SUGAR

Brown sugar is simply granulated sugar that has been coated in molasses.  The darker the sugar, the more molasses and deeper the taste.  It’s easy to duplicate at home.

For each cup of light brown sugar, measure 1 cup granulated sugar.  Remove 1 tablespoon and substitute 1 tablespoon light or dark molasses. If using weights, weigh 185 grams granulated sugar and add 1 tablespoon molasses.

Light Brown Sugar
Light Brown Sugar

For dark brown sugar, remove 2 tablespoons sugar and substitute 2 tablespoons molasses.

Dark Brown Sugar
Dark Brown Sugar

There is no need to mix the sugar and molasses together.  Just add them to the recipe where the brown sugar is called for.  If using a scale, weigh 175 granulated sugar (6 ounces) and add 2 tablespoons molasses.

POWDERED SUGAR (CONFECTIONERS SUGAR)

Powdered, confectioners or icing sugar as it is can also be referred to, dissolves instantly in liquid.  It is used for quick glazes, frosting for a cake or cookies and in some baked cookies for a softer texture.  It can also be used as part of the sugar in meringues.  

Place 1 cup of granulated sugar in a blender (do not use a food processor, it won’t work).  Add 1 teaspoon cornstarch.  The cornstarch will keep the sugar from clumping.  Blend until powdered. Because this is lighter than granulated sugar, a cup will weigh 130 grams or 4 ½ ounces.

Powdered Sugar
Powdered Sugar

SUPERFINE SUGAR (BAKER’S SUGAR)

Superfine or Baker’s Sugar is a staple in bakeries.  It is simply granulated sugar that has been ground very, very fine so it dissolves quicker and easier.  While it can be hard to find in grocery stores, it is a cinch to make at home.  Egg whites in particular, especially for meringues, call for superfine or baker’s sugar.  It's also very useful when creaming butter and sugar or combining eggs or yolks with sugar

Simply place granulated sugar in a processor bowl and process 10 to 20 seconds until very, very fine.  I make a larger amount than needed and  keep a container of superfine sugar in my pantry so it’s ready when I need it.

This weighs 200 grams per cup or 7 ounces, the same as granulated sugar.

Bakers Sugar
Bakers Sugar

Three Easy Sugar Fixes Not Just in a Pinch

These Three Easy Sugar Fixes can be used in a pinch or really anytime. I especially keep a container of Bakers Sugar in my pantry. I noticed this week when shopping that they are selling Bakers Sugar - at really inflated prices.

Sugar - The Sweetest Part of Baking

Colored Sugar
Colored Sugar

Sugar, in one form or another is the most used sweetener in a bakery.  It is used not only for sweetening, but as a tenderizer, moisturizer and for contributing brown color and a caramelized or baked flavor.  

Sugars can be dry powders consisting of fructose, sucrose, glucose, maltose and lactose.

Liquid syrups include, honey, invert sugar, corn syrup, molasses, sorghum, maple syrup, and golden syrup.

While used for sweetening, sugar also provides many functions including their hygroscopic properties which simply means their ability to attract and hold water.

Tenderizing

After the sugar is dissolved, it prevents gluten formation, protein coagulation and starch gelatinization.  Sugars delay the formation of structure and as a result they tenderize.  

The more sugar that is added, the more delayed structure formation, the more tender the baked good.  

Too little sugar in baked goods causes the structure to form too early before it can expand from the heat/steam in the oven.  The product will be compact with a peaked and cracked top with little color.

Too much sugar will result in too little structure formation and it either won’t rise or will rise but collapse as it cools.  It can cause the product to expand over the edge of a cupcake liner or pan, then collapse in the center.  

Sugar Retains Moisture

Retaining moisture can be good or bad, depending upon what is being baked.  While desirable in cakes, muffins, quick breads, scones, etc., it can ruin meringue.

The hygroscopic nature of sugar increases the softness and moistness in baked goods.  It can also postpone drying out.  Syrups such as invert syrup, honey, and high fructose corn syrup add more moistness and prevent drying out longer than dry sugars.

Provides Brown Color 

While brown sugars and syrups naturally provide a darker color to baked goods, most sweeteners contribute brown color through the process of caramelization and Maillard browning.  Cooked sugar has a caramelized taste.  The flavors of Maillard browning are diverse including roasted coffee and cocoa beans, roasted nuts, maple syrup and molasses.  

Browning occurs when sugars are heated to a high temperature.  Maillard browning is similar but proteins, in addition to the sugars, take part in browning faster and at a lower temperature.  Because of the increased protein in bread flour, products made with it will brown faster than those made with all-purpose, pastry or cake flour.

Additional Functions

Sugar assists in leavening because there is air between the irregularly shaped crystals.  When dry sugar is added to batters and doughs, air is added.  Air is a leavening agent.  

Stabalizes Eggs.   Beating egg whites, yolks or whole eggs with sugar makes them less likely to collapse.  Think angel food, sponge, genoise and anytime butter and sugar or sugar and eggs are beaten until light.  The light color is the air that is beaten in.  That air expands in the heat of the oven and causes the product to rise.

In the case of meringue cookies or pavlova where egg whites are beaten with sugar to stiff peaks, they are dried out in the oven rather than baked at low temperatures to keep them from expanding and cracking.  

Sugar provides food for yeast helping it grow faster.  Often times, even in breads,itis added to help the yeast along without simply adding more yeast.  

Reduce the iciness and harshness in frozen desserts by lowering the freezing point and holding onto the water preventing ice crystals.

Prevents Microbial Growth at high levels by lowering the water activity which is why the yeast in rich, sweet doughs rise more slowly than lean doughs.

Adds sheen to icings.  Syrups, in particular add a glossy sheen to icings and ganache which is why corn syrup is often an ingredient.

Promotes Crisp Crust on Some Baked Goods.  When moisture evaporates during baking, a crisp crust will form. Sugar promotes this crispiness as it recrystallizes during cooling.  This is particularly noticeable in cookie, brownies and pound cake recipes high in sugar and low in moisture. 

Spread in Cookies.  The more dissolved sugar in the cookies, the more the cookies will spread.  The finer it is, , the more they will spread.  Although powdered sugar is a finer grind, the cornstarch helps prevents the spread of cookies. 

Sugars for Sugar - The Sweetest Part of Baking
Starting at 12:00 position Muscavado, Demerara, Sanding, Light Brown Sugar, Swedish Pearl Sugar, Dark Brown Sugar, Turbinado, Granulated sugar.

White Sugars

Granulated sugar is a highly-refined, multi-purpose sugar made from sugar cane, sugar beets, or a combination of the two. It has had all of the naturally present molasses refined out of it.  Considered a pure sugar, it has been crystallized and centrifuged then sent through a granulator where the crystals are dried, separated, and screened.  It is the sugar most commonly used in baking.  

Baker’s Sugar – is granulated sugar that is more finely ground, also referred to as superfine sugar, ultra-fine sugar or caster sugar.  It is used professionally because it dissolves more easily in recipes and is particularly good for meringues and creaming butter and sugar together.  

Caster Sugar – see Baker’s sugar as it is the same thing.  The name caster sugar is used in Great Britain and it present or former colonies. 

Confectioners sugar is also referred to as powdered sugar . 10X powdered sugar is the most finely powdered.  It is used for dusting desserts,  frostings, icings, and candy because it provides a smooth consistency. Because it dissolves so easily, it is often used in beverages.  Confectioners sugar or powdered sugar contains about 3% cornstarch to prevent it from clumping.  

Swedish Pearl Sugar consists of thick, white, opaque, white sugar that retains its shape under the heat of the oven.  It is used for decoration as well as texture and taste particularly in Scandinavian baking. 

Belgiun Pearl Sugar is the same as Swedish Pearl Sugar but is larger.  It is used extensively with Liege Waffles.

Sanding Sugar is used for decoration reflecting light so as to sparkle.  It comes in colors as well as clear with large crystal that hold up well to the heat of the oven.  

Coarse Sugar has larger crystals than sanding sugar but is used for decoration also.

Sugar Cubes consist of granulated sugar that has been compressed into small squares.  In the past it was used to sweeten tea.  Often, flowers or other designs were painted on them.

Donut Sugar or Snow Sugar is a specially developed powdered sugar that will not dissolve or melt on baked items. It can be used for decorating donuts, breakfast pastries, fruit tarts, cakes and cookies. This is especially necessary when finishing something that is moist because this sugar will stay white and powdered.  It can also finish a frozen product and now melt when thawed. Other names by which it is known are White Snow Sugar, Non-Melting White Donut Sugar, Non-Melting Powdered sugar and Snow White Non-Melting Topping Sugar.

Brown Sugars

Brown Sugar, Dark and Light – Brown sugar is the less refined version of granulated sugar in which some of the molasses has been retained.  Less molasses is retained in light brown sugar than in dark brown sugar. It can also be granulated sugar to which molasses has been added back.  Brown sugar is more difficult to measure correctly by volume.  If measuring this way, always pack the cup.  The most accurate way to measure is by weight.  One cup of either brown sugar weighs 200 grams.  Either brown sugar is also low enough pH for it to be deemed slightly acidic and will activate baking soda when the two are combined.  

Demerara Sugar is raw sugar than has been nominally refined.  It has large grains, is amber colored and has a subtle molasses flavor.  It is often used for topping muffins and scones.

Turbinado Sugar is also minimally refined raw sugar made after the molasses has been spun off from the sugar,.  As a result, the crystals are large and golden.  Turbinado sugar is finer than Demerara sugar and often used in tea and coffee.

Muscavado Sugar is also known as Barbados sugar is a robust, least refined raw cane sugar in which all of the molasses is retained.  It comes in a dark and light version with a rich, intense flavor.   Muscavado sugar has a wet, sandy texture and has a stronger taste than regular brown sugar due to the increased molasses. Light muscovado sugar is about one sixth molasses, and dark about one third molasses.  It retains the most complex sweetness including the butterscotch flavors in candies and puddings.   

Liquid Sugars

Sweeteners such as corn syrup, invert syrups, honey, and molasses prevent moisture loss and also help prevent sugar crystallization.  These sweeteners make soft, moist baked goods.

Honey comes in many flavors depending upon where the bees are.  It is used as a sweetener in baking and to finish desserts such as baklava.  

Molasses, Dark & Light is a thick, dark syrup made by boiling and reducing sugar cane which produces sugar crystals and molasses.  There are usually three cycles with each cycle yielding a darker and more bitter syrup.  It also comes in mild, the first extraction and dark which is the second.  Black strap molasses is the third and the most intense and bitter.  

Sorghum syrup was introduced into the south in the early 17th century from Africa with the slave traffic.  It has a thinner consistency than molasses and was often used as a drizzle on cakes, biscuits and bread.

Maple Syrup has multiple which vary in flavor and thickness.  It is used for both sweet and savory applications including as a flavoring for pies and cookies. 

Corn Syrup is made from the starch of corn and contains varying amounts of sugars.  It is used in foods to soften texture, add volume, and prevent crystallization of sugar.  It come in a clear variety that is enhanced with salt and vanilla and the dark corn syrup that contains molasses. 

Golden syrup is a translucent, golden-amber colored, sweet syrup, which was created in London in the 1880s. It is made from white sugar which has been inverted, meaning that the sucrose has been broken down into two simpler sugars, fructose and glucose.   Beautifully golden, hence it’s name is has a light caramel flavor.  It is used where honey or corn syrup is used and as a syrup over pancakes, waffles, ice cream, etc.  (I can eat this by the spoonful all by itself.)

Triple Lemon Cake

Triple Lemon Cake

A show stopping Triple Lemon Cake will have everyone asking where you got it.  Watch their reaction when you tell them you made it! It's the perfect spring cake.

This cake contradicts the normal assembly of a cake.  The “filling” is on the outside of the French sponge cake, genoise.  The crumbs on the outside are cake crumbled in the processor.  To protect the “filling” from crusting over, meringue is piped on top.  

To make things easier it consists of easy component parts that can be made ahead and assembled when needed. 

Genoise

While originating around 1500 in Genoa, Italy, the French named it genoise when they took it over.  French baking borrowed recipes liberally from other nations, renaming them as they went along.  Genoise has a reputation for being two things - difficult to make and dry.  

Used as a foil for many fillings and finishes, the cake is a type of butter sponge in which whole eggs are beaten with sugar to incorporate air.  This is the only leavening in the cake.  Processing granulated sugar will turn it into bakers sugar which is very fine, allowing it to become incorporated with the eggs much easier, better and faster.  The eggs should be room temperature.  If you forget to take them out ahead of time, just put them in hot water while you get everything else ready.

The genoise layer can be made months ahead, frozen, wrapped really well and held in the freezer awaiting the final assembly.

The cake can be dry and dense if the flour is folded in too forcefully or too long.  Sift the first half of the flour over the egg mixture and fold it in about ¾ of the way. Repeat with the second half.  A very light touch is needed here.  Emulsify the butter and fold it in.  

Emulsifying the Butter

When I wrote my first book, The New Pastry Cook, I struggled mightily with getting the melted butter folded into the batter.  Despite having a wonderful French pastry chef instruct me, my butter always ended up on the bottom of the baked cake, making a rubbery, dense, unattractive and unwanted layer.

What I ended up doing was whisking some of the completed batter into the butter.  By whisking vigorously, it became emulsified. The butter becomes suspended in the batter and is no longer liquid.  That was added back to the majority of the batter and quickly folded in which solved the main reason this cake was thought to be difficult.

If you think about it, it is so much easier to beat whole eggs than whipping egg whites and yolks separately, then folding in together with the flour.  The chances of knocking the air out of them is much higher than with genoise.

Lemon Soaking Syrup for the Triple Lemon Cake

There are several reasons for using a soaking syrup.  The most important is to add flavor, either to intensify the main flavor or to add another dimension.  The second reason is to add moisture. 

It is added to this Triple Lemon Cake to maximize the lemon flavor.  

The “Lemon Filling”

If you love lemon meringue pie, you will love this “filling”.  The lemon is intense but not biting. It is added as the top layer of the cake and on the sides as the glue to keep the crumbs in place.

The filling needs to be refrigerated, preferably overnight to firm up before it can be used.  

Cake Crumbs for the Finish

Using cake crumbs to finish the outside of a cake is a very “bakery” thing to do.  Especially, since there are often cake trims or leftover cake around.  Simply tear the cake into pieces and add them to the processor.  Pulse to make crumbs.  

This works for any plain cake.  If not needed immediately, store the crumbs in the freezer for later.

Swiss Meringue for the Triple Lemon Cake

While there are three basic types of meringues, I chose the Swiss meringue for this cake because I wanted a denser meringue – sort of marshmallowy.  

The egg whites and sugar are heated together in the mixing bowl and then whipped to hold stiff peaks.  Piping or spooning them over the exposed lemon “filling” will prevent it from crusting over.

Fresh Fruit

One of my readers Liza had a great idea. If you don't want to go the Meringue route, use fresh berries. Blueberries or raspberries would be perfect because of their size.

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Triple Lemon Cake

Triple Lemon Cake
Print Recipe

A show stopper of a dessert, this Triple Lemon Cake has make ahead component parts to be assembled when needed.  

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Yield: 10
  • Category: Cakes
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

Genoise Cake

  • 6 eggs, room temperature
  • ¾ cup granulated sugar (150 grams or 5 ⅓ ounces)
  • Zest from 1 large lemon
  • 1 ¼ cups cake flour* (155 grams or a scant 5 ½ ounces)
  • ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled (60 grams, 2 ounces or ½ stick)
  • *All-purpose flour can be used by weighing the flour (155 grams) or removing 2 tablespoons from the measured flour.

Lemon “Filling”

  • ⅔ cup water
  • ⅔ cup granulated sugar (130 grams or 4 ½ ounces)
  • 2 large eggs, separated
  • 3 tablespoons cornstarch (25 grams or 1 scant ounce)
  • ¼ cup lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons butter

Lemon Soaking Syrup

  • ½ cup lemon juice
  • 1 cup sugar (200 grams or 7 ounces)

Meringue

  • 2 egg whites from above
  • ½ cup sugar (100 grams or 3 ½ ounces)

 

Instructions

Genoise

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Line the bottom of a 9x3” cheesecake or springform pan with parchment.
  2. Spray the middle of the paper only.  Do not spray the sides.  Set aside.
  3. Add the eggs, sugar and lemon zest to the mixing bowl.  Beat until very, very thick , almost white and the mixture falls in ribbons from the beater.
  4. Sift half the flour over the egg mixture and fold in about ¾ of the way.  Repeat with the remainder of the flour.
  5. Add about 1 cup of the batter to the melted butter.  Whisk vigorously to form an emulsion.
  6. Pour the emulsion back into the main batter and fold in.
  7. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing as necessary.
  8. Bake for about 23 to 28 minutes until a tester comes out cleanly and the cake bounces back when lightly touched in the middle.Genoise baked in pan
  9. Cool completely in the pan.
  10. To release, go around the inside edge with a small, flexible metal spatula.  Make sure the spatula stays to the side of the pan and not the side of the cake.Releasing the edge of the cake for the Triple Lemon Cake
  11. Remove the side.  Turn the cake upside down, remove the bottom and the parchment paper.  
  12. Turn right side up.  If not using immediately, freeze the cake, wrap it well and then freeze for several months. Partially thaw at room temperature to use.

Genoise right side upLemon "Filling"

  1. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the water, sugar, egg yolks, cornstarch, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt.Filling ingredients in pan for Triple Lemon Cake
  2. Place over medium heat and, whisking constantly, bring the mixture to a boil.  Boil for one minute.  It will be very, very thick.  Remove from the heat.
  3. Add the butter and allow to melt.  Whisk into the mixture.  Remove to a bowl
  4. Cover the “filling” with plastic wrap and chill, preferably overnight.

 Lemon Soaking Syrup

  1. Combine the ingredients in a small pan and bring to a boil.  Set aside. 

Triple Lemon Cake Assembly

Genoise

Lemon Soaking Syrup

Lemon “Filling”

  1. If the genoise layer has been frozen, thaw it at room temperature until it is partially thawed but still firm.  This will make it easier to cut.
  2. Slice about ⅛” off the top of the cake.Top sliced off for crunbs
  3. Place in the processor. Cake scraps in processor bowl 
  4. Pulse to make crumbs.  Set aside.Cake crumbs in processor
  5. Put the cake back on the metal round from the cheesecake or springform pan.
  6. Brush the soaking syrup on the cake, allowing each pass to soak in before adding more.  Use all the syrup.
  7. Break up the “filling” with a spatula. Aggressively whisk it until smooth.
  8. Apply a thin layer to the sides of the cake, making sure all of it is covered.  Spread the remainder on top of the cake.
  9. Pick the cake up in your left or right hand whichever is your preference.  Scoop up some of the crumbs and press them lightly into the lemon.
  10. Drop the remainder of the crumbs about an inch in from the edge of the cake.

Meringue

  1. Place the whites and sugar in a mixing bowl.  Put the bowl over a pan of simmering water.
  2. Heat to about 130°F.
  3. Remove from over the water and place on the mixer fitted with a whisk attachment.
  4. Beat until stiff and glossy.
  5. Place in a piping bag fitted with a large open star (#8 or 9 B tip) and pipe the meringue onto the lemon filling starting at the edge of the crumbs and work towards the center. I simply piped straight down and immediately piped again.
  6. Alternatively, the meringue can be spooned on. 
  7. Fill in completely to cover the “filling” so it can’t crust over.
  8. Refrigerate.

Triple Lemon Cake Slice

Notes

This Triple Lemon Cake is definitely best served at room temperature.  The meringue top will cut better if it has been refrigerated overnight.  Heat a knife under really hot water, dry it quickly and make a cut, letting the knife sink through the meringue, then cutting down through the cake.  Repeat for each cut.

The cake will keep 3 days or so in the refrigerator but will cut best the next day.

 

Keywords: Triple Lemon Cake, lemon cake, lemon filling, meringue top, genoise, make ahead

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A Quick Food Processor Tip

Food processor

Who doesn't want a quick food processor tip? This Thursday Tidbit is all about cleaning food from the processor blade while it is in the processor.

How many times have you been frustrated trying to remove the last of the food from the food processor blade? There's a really simple way to do it.

Early in my food career I was a consultant to Cusinart. I specialized in using the food processor for baking and pastry. I spent an exciting two weeks in their test kitchen learning the ins and outs of this useful machine.

In my post Food Processor Tips When Baking I share much of what I learned. This Quick Food Processor Tip is just one of many useful ways to get the most out of your food processor.

Cleaning the Blade of a Food Processor

Remove as much as you can from the processor using the heavy plastic spatula that comes with the machine. Do not use a rubber spatula as the sharp blade will cut into it.

Leave the blade in place.

Put the top on the processor and pulse it several times.

The centrifugal force will fling whatever remains on the blade to the side of the bowl where it is easily removed.

Tourte Milanese

Tourte Milanese

I came across Tourte Milanase years ago.  It’s a spectacular tour de force. And, as with most spectaculars, it requires a bit of preparation to get it finished.  But when it’s done and cut into, the striking layers of green, red, pink and white are dramatic.  

I’m writing about it now because it is a natural for Easter Brunch.  First of all, it’s impressive look..  It can be made ahead and room temped as the rest of the brunch is attended to.  A short warming in the oven and it’s ready to dazzle your family or guests.

While I am making the original Tourte Milanese, feel free to switch out ingredients. Don't like spinach? Switch to marinated artichokes or broccoli. Trade the ham for turkey. Cheddar cheese would be good and you can really add excitement with hot pepperjack cheese.

Don’t let the length of the recipe deter you.  Much of the prep can be made ahead to speed things along.  The tourte can also be assembled completely either baked or unbaked.  

The Origin

Both the book and the PBS series, Baking with Julia, featured Michel Richard along side Julia Child.  It’s as relevant today as it was then.  Tourte Milanase is the creation of Michel Richard, a French born pastry chef who was adventurous, jovial and fond of experimentation.  Born in France, he became a citizen of the United States. He was known to be open to the many culinary influences of this country with his hybrid French-Californian take on food.  

The original recipe featured puff pastry as its crust.  But I feel the puff is too light for the multiple layers inside so I changed it to one of my favorite savory crusts, pasta frolla as used in the Torta Rustica.  

Ingredients for the Tourte Milanese

While impressive, it isn’t difficult but time has to be set aside for sure. 

For ease of preparation, I used chopped frozen spinach and jarred fire roasted red peppers.  For some reason, spinach stays frozen longer than any other vegetable we handled. Thaw a couple of days in the fridge or set it out at room temperature for several hours.  It should be very well thawed. Drain in a colander and then squeeze the water out until it is very dry.  

The red peppers should be well drained and patted dry or, if using fresh peppers they should be roasted and cooled.

Use your favorite ham as long as it isn’t loaded with water.  If the ham has a casing, cut it off.  

For the Omelets, I cut the chives and parsley and set them aside.  When cooking the eggs, I sprinkled them with the herbs, salt and pepper before I flipped them over.  Because they are large and awkward to flip, I cut each in half making it much less intimidating.  

The omelets, spinach filling and red peppers can be made the day ahead and refrigerated making this a very manageable entree.

The crust for the Tourte Milanese should be made just before assembly.

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Tourte Milanese

Tourte Milanese
Print Recipe

What could be more dramatic than spectacular layers of green, red, white and pink encased in pasta frolla for this best of all make ahead entrees?

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 90 minutes
  • Cook Time: 90 minutes
  • Total Time: 180 minutes
  • Yield: 12
  • Category: Savory tart
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

Omelets 

This is for 2 omelets.  Use half the ingredients for each.  These can be made the day ahead and refrigerated.

  • 2 Tablespoons fresh chives, chopped
  • 2 Tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
  • ¾ teaspoon dried oregano
  • ¾ teaspoon salt                                                            
  • ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  • 10 large eggs
  • 4 tablespoons water
  • Butter and/or oil for pan

Spinach Filling 

This can be made the day ahead and refrigerated.

  • 24 ounces chopped frozen spinach, thawed and the water squeezed out
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon black pepper
  • ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
  • ½ cup cream

Pasta Frolla Crust

  • 3 ⅓ cups cake flour (420 grams or 14 ¾ ounces)*
  • 1 ¼ teaspoons salt
  • ¾ cup unsalted butter, refrigerated  (170 grams, 6 ounces, 12 tablespoons or 1 ½ sticks)
  • 2 eggs + 1 yolk
  • ¼ cup cream

*3 cups all-purpose flour (420 grams 14 ¾ ounces) can be substituted if necessary

Assembly of the Tourte Milanese

  • Pasta Frolla Crust
  • Two Omelets
  • Spinach Filling
  • ½ pound Swiss Cheese, thinly sliced (225 grams)
  • ½ pound smoked ham, thinly sliced (225 grams)
  • 1 pound jar or can of fire roasted red peppers, drained and patted dry (454 grams)
  • Egg beaten for egg wash

Instructions

Omelets

  1. Chop the chives and parsley separately.  Set aside.  Have the oregano, salt and pepper in close proximity to the saute pan. 
  2. For each of 2 omelets, whisk 5 eggs until completely blended.  Add 2 tablespoons water.   
  3. Add a bit of butter or oil to a 9” saute pan and heat until melted and hot.   
  4. Pour in the eggs.  Immediately, sprinkle with half of the chives, parsley, oregano, salt, and pepper or as much or little as you care. Omelet in pan  
  5. Cook until the bottom is just set.  It will still have a lot of uncooked eggs on top.  Lift the omelet in several places, tilt the pan and let the liquid run underneath.  
  6. Cut the omelet in half and flip it over.  Cook briefly just until set.Omelet cut in half for Tourte Milanese
  7. Remove it to a sheet pan to cool.  Cover and cool completely before using.
  8. Repeat with the second half of the ingredients.

Spinach Filling

  1. Heat the oil, butter and garlic in a large skillet or pot over medium heat.   
  2. Add the spinach and saute for 2 to 3 minutes. Cooking the spinach  
  3. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg and cream.  Mix quickly so the spinach absorbs the cream.   
  4. Remove the spinach, correct the seasonings, cover and cool completely.  Set aside. 
  5. This may be made the day ahead and refrigerated

Pasta Frolla Crust

Using the ingredients listed, go here for how to pictures.

  1. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of a processor.  Process to mix.
  2. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the processor.  Process until it looks mealy and no butter is visible. 
  3. Whisk the eggs, yolk and cream together and pour over the ingredients in the processor.Process until a ball forms. Redistribute the dough, making sure the top of the dough is on the bottom. Process again.
  4. Spray a 9x3” cheesecake or springform pan very well with a non-stick baking release.  Set aside. 
  5. Divide the dough in half.   
  6. Divide one piece in half again and roll each piece into a 9 ½” circle.  Place one in the bottom of the prepare pan.  Refrigerate the second piece while preparing the sides.The bottom crust in the pan for the Tourte Milanese
  7. For the sides, divide the second piece of dough into 3 equal pieces.  If you don’t have a scale, roll the dough into a log and divide into 3.   
  8. Roll each piece into a 11 x 3 inch rectangle.  The photo shows an overhang but I don't think that is necessary.  The crust as rolled here will come to the top of the pan.
  9. Place each one, as it is rolled, against the side of the pan.  The spray should keep it in place.   Join the seams well by pressing them firmly together. 
  10. Seal the bottom edges together by pressing firmly.Crust completed

Needed for Assembly

Preheat the oven to 350F.  

  1. Pasta Frolla Crust prepared
  2. Two Omelets
  3. Spinach Filling
  4. ½ pound Swiss Cheese, thinly sliced
  5. ½ pound smoked ham, thinly sliced
  6. 1 pound jar or can of fire roasted red peppers, drained and patted dry
  7. Egg beaten for egg wash

Layer as follows

  1. One OmeletOmlet in
  2. ½ spinach fillingSpinach in
  3. ½ cheeseCheese in
  4. ½ hamHam in
  5. All of the peppersPeppers in
  6. Ham
  7. Cheese
  8. Spinach filling
  9. OmeletTop Omelet on Tourte Milanese

Completing the Tourte Milanase

  1. Fold the excess top pastry in over the omelet.  Edges of crust turned in over the filling
  2. Brush with egg wash.Turned in edges egg washed
  3. Place the 9 ½” top over it.  Seal the seams.
  4. Press the pastry firmly to level it. 
  5. Cut a vent in the center of the dough and carefully with a very sharp knife,  mark the tourte into 10 to 12  pieces and carefully cut, not more than ½ way through the crust. Top of Tourte Milanese marked.
  6. Brush the top with egg wash.  Let it dry for about 5 minutes.
  7. Brush with egg wash again. 

Baking the Tourte

  1. If baking immediately, bake at 350°F  for 1 ¼ to 1 ½ hours until medium brown. 
  2. Cool completely.  Refrigerate if making ahead. 
  3. If baked ahead, bring it to room temperature and warm it in a 350°F oven for about 30 minutes.
  4. Serve cold, room temperature or slightly warmed but not hot. Tourte Milanese baked  

 

Notes

This Tourte Milanese can be made ahead in one of two ways.  Assemble and refrigerate unbaked, adding additional baking time.   Alternatively bake it and refrigerate it.  

Keywords: Tourte Milanese, savory tart, savory entre, Michel Richard, spinach, ham, swiss cheese, red peppers,

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Magnificent Meringue Class Reminder

Spanish Windtorte

Meringues have been a source of uncertainty to many when it comes to baking.   And they really needn’t be. What kinds are they?  How do they differ?  Where are they used?  Can you overbeat them? Why use an acid when making them?  Why does the weather matter?  How to minimize cracking when drying.  

This class is going to answer all of these questions and more.  Meringue is one of the easiest of all baking and pastry base recipes.  There is so much that can be done with it from buttercreams to cookies to fillings, toppings, and more.  

Light and airy with a melt-in-your-mouth texture, meringues can be flavored (but where and when is of utmost importance), colored or left snow white.  They are easy to make and last indefinitely in a closed tin.  And don’t forget they are gluten free if that is a concern.

This Class Focuses on:

Types of Meringue and their uses.

Lemon Meringue Pie – meringue part only.  This Answers the question:  "How do you keep meringue from weeping or pulling away from the sides of a pie after it is baked?  

Lemon Meringue Pie

Meringue Shells also known as Pavlova which can be filled with curds, ice cream or whipped cream and fresh fruit.

Meringue Shells

Spanish Windtorte - a gorgeous meringue case to be filled with whatever your heart desires.

Spanish Windtorte

To sign up for the Meringue Class, please click here.

As always you will receive the recipes, including the Lemon Meringue Pie, the recording and the class notes of general interest.

All of my zoom classes are demonstration so you just need to show up. They usually last about 2 to 2 ½ hours.  Recipes and the link to the class will be sent several days before the class takes place.

Time and Date

Saturday April 2, 2022

2:00 PM Central Daylight Time

Cost:  $45.00

Please go here  to sign up.

Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread

Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread

Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread is not only beautiful, it has an “how did you do that” look to it.  Swirled into an easily made S shape it is a picture of old-world elegance.  Not overly sweet, this large loaf of sweet bread is perfect with a cup of tea or coffee.

The shape of this bread is based on the Pane Bianco which is a savory stuffed Italian bread. 

The Dough

What I particularly like about this lightly sweetened dough is how luxuriously soft and velvety the dough feels.  While slightly sticky when made, an overnight rest in the refrigerator makes it ideal to work.  This is really important when it comes to the length to which the dough needs to be rolled.  There is none of the dreaded spring-back so prevalent while rolling yeasted doughs.  However, it is important to roll it the dimensions called for and pick the dough up from time to time as it will always shrink back slightly.

The anise flavoring is subtle even with the fig filling.  If anise is not your cup of tea, it can be flavored with vanilla or orange or lemon rind.  

The Fig Filling

I used Mission Figs for this Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread for their depth of flavor in this easy to make filling.  Below is just one of the brands available.

The dark figs come with their stems attached.  Just cut them off at the top and they are ready to go into the processor.  After quickly processing to chop them, the remaining ingredients are added and processed.  

I remember when dried fruit was truly dry, always needing to be soaked.  But nowadays, much of the dried fruit is moist and so much better and easier to work with.  These Mission figs fall into that category.  They don’t need to be soaked or otherwise prepared to use.  

Shaping and Baking the Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread

Although the shape looks complicated, it's really very easy to do.  One long roll, sliced deeply with one side turned down and the up to make the S.  That’s it.

I chose to finish the Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread with Swedish Pearl Sugar to give it a bit of crunch.  Sanding sugar can be used or it can simply be egg washed.  

The Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread is doubled panned when baked. Rich doughs that have egg and sugar can become overly browned on the bottom easily. By placing the pan with the sweet bread on a second pan, it will slow down the heat to the bottom preventing over browning or burning. It will increase the time slightly but the outcome will be much better.

While I have never gotten the hang of decoratively slashing loaves of bread, I do love to shape them and this loaf is appealing in more ways than one.

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Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread

Print Recipe

Not overly sweet, this Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread is the perfect accompaniment to a cup of tea or coffee - morning, noon or night. 

  • Author: Helen S. Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 35
  • Cook Time: 50
  • Total Time: 85
  • Yield: 12
  • Category: Sweet Bread
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

Dough

  • 3 ½ cups bread flour (490 grams or 17 ¼ ounces)
  • 1 tablespoon instant yeast
  • 1 ½ teaspoons salt
  • 1 cup lukewarm water
  • ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted (60 grams, 2 ounces or 4 tablespoons)
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons anise extract
  • ⅓ cup dark brown sugar (65 grams or 2 ¼ ounces)

Fig Filling

  • 7 ounces dried mission figs (200 grams)
  • ⅓ cup +1 tablespoon dark brown sugar (75 grams or 2 ⅔ ounces)
  • ¼ cup unsalted butter (60 grams, 2 ounces or 4 tablespoons)
  • 2 teaspoon vanilla
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 tablespoon water, about

Shaping and Finishing

  • 1 egg, beaten
  • Swedish pearl sugar or sanding sugar, optional

Instructions

Dough

  1. Place the flour in a medium size bowl.  Put the yeast on one side of the flour and the salt on the other.  Set aside.
  2. In a mixing bowl fitted with a dough hook if possible, whisk the water, melted butter, eggs, anise extract, and brown sugar together.liquids-in-mixing-bowl
  3. Add the flour to the bowl and mix on low until it comes together.Flour in bowl with liquid ingredients for the Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread
  4. Raise the speed to medium and mix for 3 to 4 minutes until smooth.Dough mixed
  5. Spray a bowl or container at least twice the size of the dough with a non-stick baking release.  Put the dough in the container. covered with plastic wrap.  I mark the time on the top of the lid.Dough-put-to-rise
  6. Let it rise until doubled, about 2 hours.
  7. Deflate the dough and place it in the refrigerator overnight where it will most likely rise again.  
  8. Makes about 920 grams or 2 ¼ pounds.

Fig Filling

  1. Remove the stems from the figs.Mission fig

Stems cut off

  1. Place in a processor bowl and process until finely chopped.Chopped figs for Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread
  2. Add the remaining ingredients except the water and process until smooth.Filling ingredients in processor
  3. Add the water to make a spreadable paste.  It may need more depending upon how dry the figs were.Fig stuffing processed

Shaping and Finishing

  1. Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper.  Set aside.
  2. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and deflate it if it has risen again.
  3. Place it on a lightly floured surface, shaping it into a rectangle.
  4. Roll into an 8 x 22 inch rectangle.Dough rolled out
  5. Spread the fig filling to within 1” of the borders.Filling spread on dough for Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread
  6. Starting on the long side, roll tightly, jelly roll style.Dough rolled up jelly roll style
  7. Brush the edge with water.Edge wet with water
  8. Pinch the edge to seal it.

Seam pinched together

  1. Turn the roll over so it is smooth on top.
  2. With a pair of scissors, cut into the dough about 1” deep to within ½” of each end.
  3. Keeping the exposed cut on top, make an S shape by bending the top down to the middle of the roll.Right side of dough folded down
  4. Tuck the end underneath.Left side up
  5. Bring the bottom of the dough up along the left side, tucking it underneath.

Left side tucked under

  1. Place the sweet bread in the pan on the parchment paper.Shaped and on tray
  2. Let rise until double.Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread risen
  3. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  4. While the oven is preheating, brush the bread with egg wash.Egg Washed
  5. Sprinkle with Swedish pearl or sanding sugar.
  6. Double pan.  Place the sheet pan on a second sheet pan.Double Pan
  7. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes until deeply golden brown.  A thermometer will read 190°F when placed in the thickest part of the bread.
  8. Cool completely on a rack.

Fig Stuffed Anise Sweet Bread

Notes

Well covered, this bread will remain moist for several days.  

 

Keywords: Fig Stuffed Bread, Stuffed Bread, Stuffed Sweet Bread, Coffee Cake, baking, pastry. sweet bread, mission figs, anise

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Chopping Nuts - A Quicker Way

Large nut pieces for Chopping Nuts

Chopping Nuts has never been one of my favorite things to do when baking. At the bakery, we would buy whatever size nut we wanted in 30 pound boxes. Since we used most nuts toasted, we would toast the entire box, cool them, and then re-box and store them in the freezer. It worked out wonderfully.

So for this Tidbit Thursday offering, fast forward to no more bakery. I have no idea why I dislike cutting nuts. Spoiled perhaps? Probably. But whatever the reason, I do. Then I came up with a quicker way. I understand I can buy chopped nuts in small amounts but I am skittish about how long and under what circumstances, the nuts have been stored. They are also really expensive in smaller amounts.

Freezing Nuts

In the fall, when the new nut crops come in, I buy large bags of pecan and walnut halves and large pieces to store in my freezer. These are softer nuts and heavy in oil. They can go rancid fairly fast if not kept cold or frozen. Almonds and hazelnuts are harder and don't seem to become rancid as quickly although they go in the freezer also. I usually buy these whole or in the case of almonds slivered but not sliced.

When I had the bakery, I sourced my nuts from distributors that specialized in selling nuts and kept them refrigerated which ensured they would be good to use anytime of the year.

Chopping Nuts

When I have to chop nuts, I prefer to do it by hand and not in the processor. Because the processor blade whirs around at about 30 miles an hour, it can really pulverize nuts in a hurry. Even if they are pulsed, there seems to be a lot of powder. While I save the powder to use elsewhere, it seems like a waste.

Here's my latest technique.

While I didn't do it for the photos, it is easiest to put them in a rimmed baking sheet for this technique because they will scatter.

If the nuts are frozen, let them sit in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet for a few minutes until thawed.

Using a meat pounder or heavy pan, simply smash them.

If you gather them up under the cupped palm of your hand and shake them around, the large pieces are easily separated out in case they need to be "chopped" further.

This works for any nut.

Using the Nuts

If using the nuts to add to cookies or a cake, just scoop them up and add where called for.

If using for decoration that will be seen, strain the nuts to remove any powder so the finish will look clean.

That's pretty much it. Quick, easy and no chopping!

The Definitive Bailey's Cheesecake

Bailey's Cheesecake

This Bailey’s Cheesecake, is everything a cheesecake should be - creamy, easy to make and full of flavor. To reinforce the Bailey's flavor, a Bailey's White Chocolate Glaze finishes the cheesecake.

But the best thing about this cheesecake is that it is super simple and a great place to start if just getting into cheesecakes.  

Cheesecake Pans vs. Springform Pans

Cheesecake pan

The difference between a cheesecake pan and a springform pan is how the sides are made. The cheesecake pan has a solid rim and a perfectly flat removable bottom. While it requires a different method to release the cheesecake, it is easily and quickly done. The flat removable bottom allows for easy removal. When we made cheesecakes requiring water baths, we simply wrapped these pans in aluminum foil to keep the water out. Parrish's Magic Pan line has this pan in different sizes.

Parrish's Magic Pan line is the one we used at the bakery. I am still using some that are 30 years old. They last forever, are easier to clean and are very reasonably priced. We used their cake pans, wedding cake pans, and cheesecake pans in different sizes. We literally had 100's of their pans.

Most springform pans do not have a perfectly flat removable bottom making it more difficult to remove the cheesecake.  Also, after years of use or if not stored properly, the spring can get sprung making it unusable.

The Crumb Crust

This is the same crust we used at the bakery for cheesecakes using a chocolate crumb crust.  Chocolate cookies, often used, were always a lot more expensive than graham crackers.  Since we always had the ingredients on hand, I came up with a substitute for the cookies.  We used to make the crumbs in huge batches stored in 35-gallon containers for quick access when making cheesecakes.  

The Cheesecake Filling

The cheesecake filling is a variation on my Unbelievable Cheesecake which really is the easiest cheesecake to make.  For anyone who thinks a creamy cheesecake is beyond their ability, I can tell you this one is very accessible.  

There are only four ingredients in the filling.  It can be made in the food processor or the mixer.  In a matter of minutes, the cheesecake is in the pan and on its the way to the oven.  

Either regular cream cheese or ⅓ less fat can be used to make the Bailey’s Cheesecake.  Sugar, eggs, and Bailey’s Liqueur complete the recipe.  

Mixing the Filling

Over the years, I have found there is a distinct difference in how the cheesecake is mixed. When using the processor, it is much easier to mix the cream cheese without lumps. Using the processor also makes a very creamy, but firmer cheesecake that cuts beautifully.

Mixing the filling in a mixer makes a slightly less firm cheesecake that isn't quite the same texture but is also fine.

I prefer cheesecake fillings mixed in the processor. However, both work. Instructions are given for both.

Bailey’s White Chocolate Glaze

While most Bailey’s cheesecakes are finished with a dark chocolate glaze, I feel dark chocolate is too assertive for the filling.  

So, I used Ghirardelli white chocolate and Bailey’s to make the glaze.  However, there are a couple of things that are important to using white chocolate.  

Ghirardelli white chocolate bar for Bailey's Cheesecake

First, it must be real white chocolate and not coating chocolate.  White chocolate consists of sugar, cocoa butter, milk solids or milk powder and, possibly, lecithin and vanilla only.  And, it’s not really white, but cream colored.  

White melting wafers, made by several companies, can include these ingredients:  Sugar, Palm And Palm Kernel Oil, Nonfat Dry Milk, Whole Milk Powder, Sorbitan Tristearate, Soy Lecithin, Salt, Natural Flavor.  As you can see there is no cocoa butter.  While they melt, they are not white chocolate.  

Melting White Chocolate for the Bailey’s Cheesecake

It can be tricky to melt white chocolate because it seizes easily and quickly if too high a heat is used to melt it.  

First, the chocolate needs to be chopped in small pieces.  That will allow the heat to melt it more uniformly.  

I don’t use the microwave to melt white chocolate because it has burned it too often.  Placing it in a double boiler making sure the bottom of the double boiler does not touch the water is a safer alternative.

At the first sign of melting, I stir gently and constantly until it’s melted.   The same applies if there is a liquid used.

When Adding Liquid to Chocolate

When it comes to liquid being added to chocolate, the ratio is 1 tablespoon of liquid added all at once to 2 ounces of chocolate. This prevents the dry particles (cocoa and sugar) in the chocolate from binding together and becoming lumpy which is known as seizing. 

It is also important that the liquid not be cold when added to melted chocolate.  That can also cause seizing.  If melting liquid and chocolate together, the liquid does not need to be the same temperature since the heat will even them out.  

The only sure way I know to correct seizing is to add solid shortening like Crisco to the hot chocolate a bit at a time until it is reconstituted.  This is best used for baking.

Variations

The flavor of this Bailey’s Cheesecake can be varied by changing the type of liqueur used.  If no liqueur is wanted, substitute ¼ cup of water and 2 tablespoons vanilla extract.

YouTube Video

For over 6 years I was on the local CBS TV station demonstrating a recipe in 4 minutes.  It was a challenge much of the time.  You can see the last segment I did making this cheesecake without the liqueur.  It was a really fun time in my life as you can see. 

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The Definitive Bailey's Cheesecake

Print Recipe

This Bailey's Cheesecake is as simple as it gets to make.  This is as creamy a cheesecake you will find and very Bailey's forward with a Bailey's White Chocolate Glaze to finish it.  Perfect for a beginning baker or a seasoned baker.  

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 25
  • Cook Time: 2 ½ hours
  • Total Time: 3 hours
  • Yield: 12
  • Category: Cheesecake
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

Chocolate Crumb Crust

  • 1 ⅓ cups graham cracker crumbs (150 grams or 5 ⅓ ounces)
  • ¼ cup cocoa (24 grams or ¾ ounce)
  • ½ cup powdered sugar (45 grams or about 1 ½ ounces)
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted (80 grams or a scant 3 ounces

Cheesecake Filling

  • 2 pounds cream cheese, regular or ⅓ less fat, room temperature (910 grams)
  • 1 cup sugar (200 grams or 7 ounces)
  • 5 large eggs
  • ¼ cup Bailey’s Liqueur
  • 2 tablespoons water

Bailey’s White Chocolate Glaze

  • 4 ounces white Chocolate*
  • 3 tablespoons Bailey’s Liqueur

*It is important to use real white chocolate and not white chocolate coating.  

 

Instructions

Chocolate Crumb Crust – for how to pictures, go here.

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
  2. Spray a 9x3 inch cheesecake pan or a springform pan with non-stick baking release.
  3. Place the graham cracker crumbs in a bowl. Sift the cocoa and powdered sugar over them.  Whisk together.
  4. Add the butter and combine with a fork so the crumb mixture is equally coated.
  5. Press evenly into the bottom of the pan.  Set aside.Chocolate crust pressed into the pan

Cheesecake Filling - Processor Method

  1. Place half the cream cheese in the processor and process until it is smooth. First cream cheese processed
  2. Add the remainder of the cream cheese and the sugar, processing until completely smooth.  Scrape down several times and process again to make sure there are no lumps.
  3. Add the eggs, process and scrape down.Eggs added to filling
  4. Add the Bailey’s and the water.  Process to make sure it is smooth.Bailey's added to filling
  5. Pour it into the prepared pan and place it in the oven.Cheesecake in pan ready for the oven

Cheesecake Filling - Mixer Method

  1. It is best to have the cream cheese at room temperature if using the mixer.
  2.  In a mixer bowl, combine the cream cheese and sugar, beating until smooth.  Scrape the sides and bottom often to prevent lumps.
  3.  Add the eggs, one at a time.  Scrape down every two eggs.
  4. Add the Bailey’s and the water.  Beat to just combine.  You do not want to incorporate air into the mixture at this point.
  5. Pour into the prepared pan and place in the oven.

Baking the Bailey’s Cheesecake

  1. Bake for 2 ½ hours until the cheesecake has a very slight “jiggle” in the middle.
  2. Cool in the pan and refrigerate until cold or overnight.Baked Cheesecake

Releasing the Cheesecake

  1. This cheesecake usually pulls away slightly from the edge of the pan.  If it doesn't, briefly heat the sides of the pan with a blow dryer.
  2. If using a cheesecake pan, place it on top of a wide can such as a 28 ounce tomato puree.Rim of cheesecake pan slid down
  3. Slide the rim down.
  4. If using a springform pan, release the side of the pan.
  5. Using a straight, metal spatula, loosen the bottom by slipping the spatula between the cake and the bottom of the cheesecake pan.Metal spatula between crust and pan for Bailey's Cheesecake
  6. Using two pancake turners, one on each side of the cake, lift the cheesecake onto a cake board or serving plate.
  7. If using a springform pan, you cannot loosen the bottom because of the lip.However, the cheesecake should be firm enough to lift off using the pancake turners.

Bailey’s White Chocolate Glaze

  1. Chop the white chocolate into small pieces.Chopped white chocolate for the glaze
  2. Place the Bailey’s in the top of a double boiler or a bowl that will fit over simmering water in a pan.Bailey's in pan over simmering water
  3. Add the chopped chocolate.White Chocolate in pan with Baile's liqueur
  4. Bring the water to a simmer.  Do not let it boil and do not let it touch the bottom of the pan.
  5. Heat slowly to melt the chocolate.  After the chocolate starts to melt, stir or whisk gently to avoid air bubbles in the finished glaze.Bailey's white chocolate glaze
  6. After the glaze is completely smooth, pour tit over the chilled Bailey’s Cheesecake and spread out to the sides.  If some drips down the sides, that’s fine.Glazed Bailey's Cheesecake
  7. Refrigerate to set.

 

 

Notes

Notes: For maximum flavor, allow the cheesecake to sit at room temperature 10 to 15 minutes before serving.  This cheesecake freezes well if you wish to make it ahead. 

 

Variations:  Any flavored liqueur can be substituted for a change in flavor for both the cheesecake and the glaze.

 

Keywords: Bailey's Cheesecake, cheesecake, Bailey's Liqueur, white chocolate, white chocolate glaze, chocolate crumb crust, very easy to make

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Irish Apple Cake

Irish Apple Cake

This Irish Apple Cake was the end result of a search for an Irish dessert for St. Patrick’s day.  

What I’m excited to share is a wonderfully moist cake filled with apples and topped with a streusel.  There are several versions online, mostly without the topping.  That is what drew me to this recipe.  I love streusels and crumb tops.  Gemma Stafford posted this on her blog under the title, “My Mum’s Irish Apple Cake Recipe”.  Her opening line is, “It doesn’t get much better than my mum’s Irish Apple Cake recipe” and she couldn’t be more right.  Lucky for us!

The Apples

Granny Smith apples are specified for this Irish Apple Cake and I stuck with those.  While Gemma’s recipe calls for “one even layer” of apples, I took that to mean a single layer as in most of the other recipes.  However, after peeling, coring and slicing 3 apples as called for, I added all of them, in one even layer.  

I’m also going to show you a quicker way to core an apple for slicing.  After peeling the apple cut it in half from top to bottom.  Cut each half in half again making 4 quarters.  

Apples quartered for Irish Apple Cake

Place the knife at an angle just above the seeds and slice down.  Once you get the hang of it, it is much faster than scooping out the seed pod.  

Coring the apple
Apple Cored

Irish Apple Cake Layer

I made a few minor changes like using brown sugar instead of granulated in the streusel and a bit more butter to ensure it holds together in the oven.  The good news is there is lots of streusel topping.  

I felt it was only fitting to use Kerry Gold salted butter if I was going to make this authentic.  

The cake itself is cinnamon flavored backed up with vanilla. It’s a snap to put together.  Don’t be put off by the relatively small amount of batter when spread in the pan.  By the time the apples and streusel are added there is a full 2” layer of cake.

This cake is ideal served anytime of day.  We especially liked it in the morning with a cup of tea.  It’s not too sweet, the apples are soft but not mushy and the streusel adds one more layer of flavor.  For me, this is a perfect coffee cake or snack cake.  

The Conclusion

You don’t want to let this Irish Apple Cake go by.  

If you like crumb topping as much as I do, take a look at these recipes:

New York Style Crumb Cake

Easily Made Raspberry Ripple Coffeecake

Deep Butter Cake

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Irish Apple Cake

Irish Apple Cake
Print Recipe

Irish Apple Cake is the perfect St. Patrick's day dessert. Tart Granny Smith Apples cover a moist cinnamon cake all topped off with a brown sugar streusel.  This is a keeper for sure.

Ingredients

Streusel Topping

  • ½ cup salted butter, cold (114 grams or 4 ounces or 1 stick)
  • ¾ cup all-purpose flour (105 grams or 3 ¾ ounces)
  • ¼ cup rolled oats (21 grams or ¾ ounces)
  • ½ cup brown sugar (100 grams or 3 ½ ounces)

Irish Apple Cake

  • 3 medium Granny Smith apples
  • 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour (175 grams or 6 ⅛ ounces)
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon salt (use ½ teaspoon if using unsalted butter)
  • ½ cup salted butter (114 grams or 4 ounces or 1 stick)
  • ½ cup granulated sugar (100 grams or 3 ½ ounces)
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3 tablespoons milk

Instructions

Streusel

  1. Spray a 9 x2 inch round cake pan with non-stick baking release.  Set aside.
  2. Cut the butter into small pieces. 
  3. Combine the flour, oats, and brown sugar in the bowl of a mixer. Dry ingedients for streusel in mixing bowl
  4. Add the butter.Butter added to streusel
  5. Beat on medium until crumbs form.  Be careful not to overbeat and turn it into a paste.  Streusel in
  6. Refrigerate while preparing the cake layer.

Irish Cake Layer

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Spray a 9x2 inch round cake pan really well.  Set aside.
  2. Peel, core and slice the apples very thinly.  Sliced apples in a bowl for the Irish Apple Cake
  3. Place in a bowl and cover directly with plastic wrap.  They may still brown a bit, but that is fine.
  4. Whisk the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and salt together in a bowl.  Set aside.
    Flour, cinnamon whisked together
  5. Without cleaning the mixing bowl, cream the butter, sugar and vanilla in the bowl of a mixer until light and fluffy.  Butter, sugar, and vanilla creamed together
  6. Beat the eggs in one at a time.  First egg in batter for Irish Apple Cake
  7. They will most likely curdle.  Curdled mixture
  8. Add half the flour mixture and beat on medium low. Add half the flour
  9. Add the milk.Milk added to the batter
  10. Add the remaining flour.
  11. Spread the batter in the prepared pan.  Irish Apple Cake batter spread in pan
  12. Place the apples on top in a flat layer.  Apples spread over the batter.
  13. Cover the apples with an even layer of streusel.Streusel covering the apples
  14. Bake for about 65 to 75 minutes.  A tester will come out cleanly and the apples will be soft.
  15. Cool the cake in the pan.  
  16. To serve, dust with powdered sugar, cut into slices and get ready for a real treat. 
  17. Store the cake, covered, at room temperature for 3 to 4 days.  Ours barely lasted until the next day!!

 

 

 

 

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How to Avoid Curdled Cake Batter

Curdled Cake Batter can be alarming but it is easily fixed. Have you ever creamed butter and sugar together into a light fluffy mixture?  And then, when eggs are added one at a time or all at once, the light, fluffy mixture breaks down separating into clumps that look like rice in liquid?  Depending upon how much butter and sugar have been creamed one or two eggs might not do it. However, the third or fourth cause the dreaded curdling or breaking of the mixture. 

Emulsions

Many articles will tell you it’s the temperature of the eggs and butter. When you beat the butter and sugar then add eggs an emulsion is created.  Most emulsions occur in baking when fat is suspended in water.  Eggs contain water in the whites.  However, at some point, the mixture will curdle or break if too many eggs are added because the fat from the butter cannot hold any more water.  This won't happen when adding yolks alone, because they don't have water. Since yolks are fat, adding fat to fat isn't a problem.

Avoiding Curdled Cake Batter

Having the butter and eggs around 72° to 74°F helps since adding cold eggs to a warmer creamed mixture can cause the butter to seize breaking into little clumps which isn't curdlig.  Covering the refrigerated eggs in hot water while the other ingredients are being assembled will ensure they will be warmed when needed.

Although room temperature ingredients are helpful, I rarely remember and it honestly doesn’t matter. 

Remember too much water will cause the curdling also as will not beating the eggs long enough for the water and fat to come together.

Easy Fixes for Curdled Batter

There are basically two ways to fix the problem.  The first is to simply raise the speed of the mixer.  But this isn’t the best solution because it can ramp up the gluten in the cake batter making it less tender.  

The best way to fix curdled cake batter is simply to add the flour and mix on low.  It will all come together in a beautifully emulsified batter with no hint of curdling. 

At the end of some cake recipes they will add the flour and liquid alternately to the mixture in the bowl, starting and ending with the flour. That's to prevent the mixture in the bowl from curdling. If you added the liquid first, chances are it would curdle, so the flour always goes in first and last.

Recently, I’ve seen a number of articles that suggest adding a couple of tablespoons of flour as the curdling appears.  But this isn’t necessary.  As you can see by the photos, add all the flour after the eggs have been added and it will come together as if there had been no curdling at all. Just remember to beat on low to medium low.

Lamington Torte

This Lamington Torte is an adaptation of Australia’s much loved snack, Lamington Squares. Traditionally, they are made of sponge cake, dipped in chocolate and rolled in desiccated coconut.  The sponge can also be split and filled with whipped cream or jam.

However, in researching this treat, I found that here in the states the cake usually runs to a butter cake. The recipes did stay true to the original powdered sugar icing.

The Cake

I liked the idea, but I am not a fan of sponge cake except in a few instances where nothing else will do.  My Lamington Torte consists of four layers of yellow butter cake, raspberry jam filling and a rich chocolate ganache rather than the powdered sugar based icing.

Toasted vs. Burned Coconut

I also use sweetened coconut that is toasted then flattened with a rolling pin so it lies flatter than regular coconut when covering the cake.  Toasting coconut is one of those things in baking where you need to be around, as it has to be stirred every few minutes to achieve a luscious deep golden brown.  Unless, of course,  you go to have lunch in the den with your husband and leave the timer in the kitchen.  When you do that this is what your coconut will look like. Don't do this!

Burned coconut

Lamington Torte Filling

The fillings are rich so they are spread thinly.  The cake is finished in a very thin layer of ganache into which the toasted coconut is pressed.  This insures that with every bite you taste all the components whereas either the raspberry or the chocolate could dominate with thicker fillings.

This Lamington Torte is great for beginners since there is no decorating.  It isn't necessary for the glaze to be perfect since it will be covered by the coconut. This cake freezes well so can be made ahead.

Following my usual practice, I baked the yellow cake  in four layers rather than split two layers.  However, if you have only two pans, then split the cake layers.

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Lamington Torte

Lamington Torte
Print Recipe

This Lamington Torte combines a tender yellow cake with raspberry jam, a dark chocolate ganache and toasted coconut that was inspired by the Lamington Snack cakes so popular in Australia.

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Yield: 12 servings
  • Category: Cakes, Tortes
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

Lamington Torte

Yellow Cake

  • Four layers of Yellow Cake
  • Dark Satin Ganache (Recipe Below)
  • ⅔ cup seedless raspberry jam
  • 8 ounces sweetened coconut

Dark Satin Ganache

  • ¼ cup 40% or heavy cream
  • 2 tablespoons clear cornsyrup
  • 2 ½ tablespoons butter (37 grams or 1 ⅓ ounces)
  • 5 ounces semisweet chocolate (140 grams)

Toasted Coconut

  • 8 ounces sweetened shredded coconut

Instructions

Lamington Torte

  1. Bake the cake in four 9" layers and cool.  Alternately, bake in two and slice in half horizontally when cool.  This is easiest to do if you freeze the cakes first.  Thaw for about 10 minutes and slice.

Dark Satin Ganache

  1. Combine the cream, cornsyrup and butter in a small saucepan.
    Ganache ingredients in saucepan for Lamington Torte
  2. Heat until the butter melts but do not let it boil.It should be steamy hot but not boiling.
  3. Remove from the heat and submerge the chocolate.Chocolate in hot ganache
  4. Wait for 2 minutes the gently whisk until smooth.
  5. Set aside at room temperature until thickened.This may take several hours.  Finished Ganache

Toasted Coconut

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Spread the coconut evenly on a rimmed baking sheet.
  2. Bake for about 8 minutes.  With a pancake turner, turn the coconut and return to the oven.  Toast for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir again.  Repeat until the coconut is evenly browned.  Set aside to cool.  Toasted coconut for the Lamington Torte
  3. When cool, place a piece of waxed paper over the coconut and crush with rolling pin. Stir the coconut, replace the paper and roll over it again to make sure the coconut is uniformly crushed.Crushing coconut

Assembly

  1. Place one layer of cake on a cake board or cake plate  Spread with a scant ⅓ cup of jam.  Jam spread on first layer of the Lamington Torte
  2. Place the second layer of cake on a piece of parchment or waxed paper and top with a scant ⅓ cup of ganache.  Place on top of the first layer.Second layer on.
  3. Place the third layer on waxed paper and spread with a scant ⅓ cup jam.  Place on top of the ganache layer.Third Layer on
  4. Top with the fourth layer of cake.Top layer of cake on
  5. Spread a thin layer of chocolate ganache on the sides and top of the cake.  Spreading ganache on the Lamington Torte
  6. Immediately, press the coconut onto the ganache. Refrigerate at this point to set the ganache.  It is easiest to do this by picking the torte up by placing the left hand underneath the board and scooping the coconut in the right hand and pressing it into the ganache.Applying the coconut
  7. After the initial refrigeration, the cake can be stored at room temperature.Finished Lamington Torte

Notes

The cake may be stored covered at room temperature for several days.  

To make ahead: 

The cake layers, ganache, and toasted coconut may be made ahead.  The cake layers can be frozen for several months, well wrapped.  The ganache may be refrigerated a week or ten days ahead or frozen for several months.  The coconut can be toasted, bagged and held for a month or so in the pantry.  

The filled cake, without the chocolate or coconut finish, may be frozen for several months.  Freeze the ganache also.  Thaw the cake in the refrigerator.  Thaw the ganache at room temperature.  Heat it briefly to a spreadable consistency and finish the cake as directed above.

 

Keywords: Lamington Torte, cake, chocolate ganache, raspberry jam, coconut, toasted coconut

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I visited these blogs in researching this blog.  You may find these interesting also.non www.joyofbaking.com/Lamingtons.
https://non www.marthastewart.com/334313/lamingtons
https://australianfood.about.com/od/bakingdesserts/r/Lamingtons.htm
https://non www.davidlebovitz.com/2011/11/lamingtons-recipe-chocolate-coconut-cake/

Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart

This Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart is an American take on an English dessert that can be found wherever Britannia ruled. It's a popular dessert in the UK,  named after the Derbyshire town of Bakewell. It consists of a shortcrust pastry filled with a layer of jam, frangipane, and is usually topped with flaked almonds.

The history of the Bakewell Tart can be found on Tina's Traditional.

This Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart is given an American spin with it's chocolate sour cream ganache. The tart itself features a press in pate sucre crust over which a jam or preserves of your choice is spread. A traditional frangipane fills the tart which is baked and glazed when cool.

Pate Sucre Crust

The Pate Sucre Crust is butter rich and easy to make in a processor. Even easier, it can be pressed into the shell so there is no rolling out of the crust.

It should chilled to firm up the butter before partially baking. By baking about two thirds of the way, it will ensure the crust is completely baked when done.

Frangipane Filling

Frangipane is a classic almond flavored cream or pastry. While this recipe uses almond flour, almonds may be ground finely in a food processor and used as well. This is not a cooked cream so it goes together quickly.

Chocolate Sour Cream Ganache

The addition of sour cream to a ganache give it a subtle depth that cream alone doesn't. It's important not to let the sour cream/heavy cream come to a boil or the sour cream may separate.

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Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart

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Bakewell Tart is a popular English treat and is very easy to make.  I added a sour cream chocolate ganache because I can't think of anything better than almonds, amaretto and chcoolate.

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 45
  • Cook Time: 45
  • Total Time: 90 minutes
  • Yield: 12 servings
  • Category: Tarts
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: English

Ingredients

PATE SUCRE CRUST

  • 1 ¼ cup all purpose flour (175 grams or 6 ounces)
  • ½ cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces  (114 grams or 4 ounces)
  • ¼ cup granulated sugar (50 grams or 1 ¾ ounces)
  • 2 egg yolks

FRANGIPANE FILLING

  • ⅓ cup jam or preserves of your choice
  • 1 ⅔ cups almond flour* (170 grams or 6 ounces)
  • 1 cup powdered sugar (114 grams or 4 ounces)
  • ½ cup +2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened (140 grams or 5 ounces)
  • 1 large egg
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch (16 grams or abut ½ ounce)
  • 1 tablespoon amaretto
  • 1 ½ teaspoons almond extract
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
  • *6 ounces of almonds can pulverized in a food processor along with ¼ cup of the sugar in place of the almond flour. Just make sure they are as powdered as possible without turning them into almond butter.  

     

SOUR CREAM GANACHE

  • 3 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted (85 grams)
  • ⅓ cup heavy cream
  • ¼ cup sour cream
  • 1 tablespoon corn syrup
  • Sliced almonds as needed

Instructions

PATE SUCRE CRUST

  1. Have a 9”x1” tart pan with a removable bottom available.  Go here for how to photos.
  2. Place the flour in the bowl of a processor.  Pulse several times.   Add the cold butter and process until the butter is indistinguishable.  Add the sugar and process briefly to mix in.  Add the yolks and process until the crust comes together in a ball.  
  3. Divide the dough in half (about 180 grams or 6 ⅓ ounces each).  Divide one half in half again (about 90 grams or 3 ounces each).  Roll one of the smaller pieces of dough into a rope that will go a little over halfway around the inside edge of the tart pan.  Repeat with the second half, overlapping the edges of the dough.
  4. Press the edges together so no line appears.  Press the dough into the edges of the pan, Press the dough about 1" into the bottom of the pan towards the center.
  5. Flatten the remaining half of the dough and place it into bottom of the pan.  Press it out to join the edge dough.  Join these completely so there is no line that can be seen.  Set aside.
  6. Refrigerate for 30 minutes or until firm.  
  7. Preheat the oven to 375°F.  Tear a piece of foil about 13 inches long and spray one side of it with baking release.  When the pastry is firm, line with the foil, sprayed side down.  Fill the pan to the top with pie weights or with beans.  
  8. Bake for 20 minutes, remove the weights carefully by grasping all four corners of the foil and lifting out.  Return the crust to the oven and bake for about 5 minutes more until about two thirds done baked.  It should not be completely baked.

FRANGIPANE FILLING

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Spread the jam or preserves over the bottom of the par baked crust.  Set aside.Jam spread on crust of the Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart
  2. Combine the almond flour, powdered sugar and butter in a mixing bowl and beat until well combined.Almond flour and butter creamed for Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart
  3. Add the egg, followed by the cornstarch, amaretto, vanilla, and almond extracts.  Filling finished
  4. Spread over the jam.  And smooth out.Filling in the crust of the Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart
  5. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes until the tart is set.  Lightly tent the top if it browns too much.
  6. Cool Completely. Bakewell Tart baked

SOUR CREAM GANACHE

  1. Combine the heavy cream, sour cream, and corn syrup in a small pan.  Heat until steaming and liquid but do not let it simmer or boil.  Add the melted chocolate and whisk very gently or stir with a heatproof spatula.  Be gentle so there are no air bubbles. 
  2. Pour over the tart and spread just to the edge of the filling, leaving the edge of the crust exposed.  Sprinkle with the sliced almonds and refrigerate to set the glaze. 

 

Notes

Serve this Chocolate Glazed Bakewell tart at room temperature.  It can be stored for a day at room temperature afterwhich it should be refrigerated.  Bring to room temperature to serve.

Keywords: Bakewell Tart, Chocolate Glazed Bakewell Tart, tarts, pastry, easy to make

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Here are a few more recipes that you might enjoy -

Cinnamon Whiskey Apple Tart

Chocolate Raspberry Pop Tarts

Double Banana Cream Pie

Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffins

Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffins

This Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffin recipe can be altered by changing the fruit and/or nuts used.  Almost any combination will work. 

There is a term in baking called the muffin mix which refers to mixing the wet and dry ingredients separately and then combining them.  It’s as easy as that.  

I originally found this recipe in The Butter Book which is an online baking course from The French Pastry School.  Information about it can be found here.  They use metrics in their recipes.  I kept the metrics but also added volume and ounces as I normally do.  I made minor changes to the recipe.

What I like about the recipe is that it doesn’t use a commercial GF flour substitute.  In the past I have found that some work, some don’t.  I have used King Arthur’s Measure for Measure substitute with success but I am frustrated by the fact you have to buy directly from them and the shipping charges are often as much or more than the cost of the product.  

Gluten Free Flour Mix

This recipe uses white rice flour which is pretty standard as well as cornstarch which isn’t.  When I first read the recipe, I thought it might have a starchy taste but it doesn’t and it works well.  The one item that is necessary in almost all GF mixtures is xanthan gum.  Xanthan gum takes the place of gluten in flour by binding the ingredients together.

White rice flour is readily available on grocer’s shelves.  Xanthan gum can be found online.

Curdled Mixture

While it’s true these are easy to make there is one place that can cause concern.  Often when combining eggs or liquid after creaming butter and sugar together, the mixture will break or curdle. However, there’s and easy fix when this happens.  One of two things can be done.  Raise the speed of the mixer.  This sometimes solves the problem or lessens it.  The easiest way though is to add the flour mixture which will bring everything back together in a smooth, homogenous batter.  

Oftentimes, when making a cake, the liquid and flour are alternated to keep the batter from curdling always starting and ending with the flour.  

Fresh or Frozen Fruit

I like to use frozen fruit in my muffins because it disperses better without smooshing.  One really neat trick I learned was to place the frozen fruit in a plastic bag and then crush it with your hand or a meat tenderizer before adding it to your batter.  

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Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffins

Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffins
Print Recipe

These gluten free muffins do not use a commercial mix depending upon white rice flour and cornstarch for their body.  

  • Author: Helen S Fletcher
  • Prep Time: 25 minutes
  • Cook Time: 25 minutes
  • Total Time: 50 minutes
  • Yield: 12
  • Category: Muffins
  • Method: Baking
  • Cuisine: American

Ingredients

  • 1 ¼ cup white rice flour (185 grams or 6 ½ ounces)
  • ¾ cup cornstarch (110 grams or about 3 ¾ ounces)
  • 2 tablespoons baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup unsalted butter (170 grams, 6 ounces or 1 ½ sticks)
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup granulated sugar (200 grams or 7 ounces)
  • 3 large eggs
  • ⅓ cup milk, whole or 2%
  • 1 ½ teaspoons xanthun gum
  • 1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped (114 grams or 4 ounces)
  • 1 cup frozen mixed berries (100 grams or 3 ½ ounces)
  • Sanding sugar or Swedish Pearl Sugar as needed, optional

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Line 12 regular size muffin cups with paper liners.  Set aside.
  2. Whisk together the rice flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
  3. Cream the butter, vanilla, and sugar together until light and fluffy.Butter, sugar and vanilla creamed for Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffins
  4. Add the eggs all at once, mixing on medium to combine.Eggs added to creamed mixture
  5. Add the milk and xanthun gum, mixing to blend.  At this point the mixture will most likely curdle or break.Curdled or broken mixture
  6. Mix the flour in all at once on low until a smooth batter forms, about 2 minutes.Flour added to Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffin batterBatter smoothly mixed
  7. Smash the frozen fruit as above.Smashing berries
  8. Add it along with the nuts, blending them in.Fruit and Nuts added to Gluten Free Fruit and Nut Muffins
  9. Fill the cups about ¾ full.  Sprinkle with sanding sugar or Swedish Pearl Sugar if using
  10. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes or until a tester comes out clean. Cool.

Notes

Any nut and any fruit can be substituted.  These freeze well after baking.  

Keywords: Gluten free, GF, muffins, gluten free muffins, easy to make

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